300zx mods help???

[mr mahs]

About 3 years ago me and my dad bought a 91 300zx from a good freind and neighbor down the block, he was the original owner and and sold to us because he was getting a boxster. It's a 5speed with t-tops but no turbo:(

It had 46k when I got it and has 56k to date and the guy put synthetic oil from the beginning so the the engine is in good shape. We were talking yesterday because I was thinking of selling my pathfinder. I thought we can put the proceeds from the pathfinder sale which should get around 1500-2k into the 300zx because it needs some maintenace work. To start I would like to do the clutch,alum flywheel,intake & suspension. If you had 2k and didn' t want to sacrifice the ride especially on Staten Islan being the minefield it is what would you do to squeeze some HP and handeling?????

[joeg]

well, handling is cintron/teklord's department... but i guess as far as power goes... cold air/raim air intake, exhaust (including headers), cams... i'm not really sure what the n/a guys do other than that...

[Guest brwneydtrouble]

Check out the nissan forums at

www.nissanforums.com

www.zcar.com

www.nissantalk.com

and

www.nissaninfinityclub.com my personal favorite.

I am planning on getting a 240 and turning it into a Silvia.

Good luck with your search.

[Guest saleen351]

learn from others ...

300 zx's don't last past 60k miles... them and the supras are garbage.... don't waste your money.... and without a turbo its wortheless...

[Guest brwneydtrouble]

Personally, I think that a 240 is a more stable and better car all around. But since you already have the car, go ahead and fix it up.

Don't listen to NJ guidos that drve american cars and know JACK about imports, he's just blowing smoke out his ass.

I adore you saleen, it was great seeing you on friday!!!

[cintron]

Originally posted by mr mahs

It's a 5speed with t-tops but no turbo:(

It had 46k when I got it and has 56k to date and the guy put synthetic oil from the beginning so the the engine is in good shape. We were talking yesterday because I was thinking of selling my pathfinder. I thought we can put the proceeds from the pathfinder sale which should get around 1500-2k into the 300zx because it needs some maintenace work. To start I would like to do the clutch,alum flywheel,intake & suspension. If you had 2k and didn' t want to sacrifice the ride especially on Staten Islan being the minefield it is what would you do to squeeze some HP and handeling?????

Well you're in luck. The synthetic oil has probably kept that engine in meticulous condition. Nissan and Toyota engines, when properly maintained, can last well over 200k miles. The nonturbo engines probably even longer than that.

The first step you should take before doing ANYTHING is making sure your car is in good running tune. Plugs, Wires, distributor cap [if you have one], fuel filter...

Now that you're nearing 60k, you may have a bunch of maintenence to take care of:

Timing belt

Coolant flush

Accessory belt replacement

Valvejob/Adjustment

***DON"T NEGLECT THE TIMING BELT***

If you have to change it, change it. From what i remember, the VG30DE engine is a partial intererence engine. If you break the belt, there's no guarantee that the valves won't contact the pistons and you won't be left stranded on the side of the road crying. Do all the maintenence that the car requires - your local Nissan dealer should have a sheet detailing the maintenence procedures and requirements at certain mileages. Once you've gotten that out of the way and there's still money left...

It's Time for mods:

Okay, so you don't want to compromise ride quality but you want to stiffen things up a bit and get some power.

first off, www.stillen.com is a big 300zx store, with lots of parts. Browse it, just so you understand the pricing for many things. Also, Jim Wolf Technology is another big place for 300zx's [ECU's and such]. Check it out too, since proper engine management and tuning often sharpens your car's response more than any bolt on parts would.

Like many other early 90's Japanese cars, the 300zx is handicapped by crappily bent and highly restrictive exhaust piping. Even though its not a turbo, any engine will benefit from not having to breathe out through a McDonald's straw.

Intakes usually help draw in air a little more efficiently than stock airboxes do... plus on nonturbo cars, a good cold-air intake can add a nice "bark" when you get on the throttle.

First step, Intake and Exhaust.

Suspension: Tighten things up with chassis bracing. A front strut tower brace usually helps out nicely, and a rear tower brace firms up the poor bracing afforded by a hatch. Swaybars are also a nice compliment, if you're not planning on lowering the car with stiffer springs. [which doesn't sound like a good idea around Staten Island]. Swaybars reduce body roll around cornering by being stiffer than the stock units [and also a larger diameter]. They transfer the cornering load from the tires to the suspension, but by being stiffer, they help keep the cornering load more at the tires. this is where having stickier tires comes in handy.

Next Step, front and rear strut tower braces, and maybe some swaybars.

Suspension is dicey, because it usually does affect drivability the most. A modded suspension in city areas usually turns out to be more of a curse than a blessing. [right, Apples?]

Lightweight flywheels are great, in that they lower the effective rotational inertia of the drivetrain. Your engine will rev up and down faster. Mostly this reduced inertia is apparent in first and second gear, when slamming the throttle open. The drawback is that lightweight flywheels make city driving more difficult due to lesser available torque down low. I've driven with one in the city - be prepared to have strong legs, since you'll be pushing the clutch in a lot to keep from stalling. You'll be slipping the clutch a lot with one of these. Unorthodox and Fidanza make nice aluminum units, though the japanese probably have more reliable [and equally lightweight] steel ones. Since you'll have to remove the tranny to swap it out, i'd recommend replacing the clutch while you're at it. Your stock one probably has plenty of life left at 56k miles, but a lightweight flywheel usually puts more wear on a clutch anyway, and you don't want to have to go back in there again to change a clutch and resurface your flywheel. I'd recommend a Clutchmasters Stage III kevlar unit. It's a sprung hub, just like a stock unit but the kevlar is a long-life compound that can take higher torque levels than your stock unit. Good stuff.

Throttlebodies - hop on a Z forum to see whether or not this is a good idea. Sometimes this adds a ton of power and/or throttle response and sometimes its a waste of money.

Headers: the next true step to N/A power. blah blah, check on a Z forum.

basically, anything after intake and exhaust, it's advisable to check up on a Z forum. people have been there and done that and some of them will know better. [though plenty usually dont know shit].

[mr mahs]

Thanx Cintron..

I have one little promblem though...

The owner before me took realy ggod care of the car but neglected 1 thing the antifreeze.... After I got it, it sat for about 6 mos and then I put it on th road.. One day about 2 years ago I opened the radiator cap and almost hit the floor the anti-freeze was brown I was :mad: .

I immediatley went to a local nissan dealer and they tried to up sell me on a new water pump and stuff for 1800 bucks. I ran into the mechanic who looked at it outside the garage while he was having a cigarette and we got to talking about the car. He said that it is a alluminum motor and that I would never be able to get the stuff out unless I changed everything. He said that if I keep flushing the ant-freeze the anti-freeze woould still keep it cool no matter what color it was and it wouldn't damage anything internally. The reason I am bring this up is because if the timing chain is going to get replaced the water pump is right their should I change it , the radiator and hoses so I can get rid of this promblem that is been bugging me for 2 years?? or is it's not even worth it..

[cintron]

midas well repace the water pump, since you'll have everything else off and it'll give you that peace of mind.

flush & burp the coolant system properly, add new coolant and that oughta do it.

and treat your car to a nice wash, claybar and a waxing.

[mr mahs]

Originally posted by cintron

midas well repace the water pump, since you'll have everything else off and it'll give you that peace of mind.

flush & burp the coolant system properly, add new coolant and that oughta do it.

and treat your car to a nice wash, claybar and a waxing.

I have flushe that thing 4x and it's still brown..

Midas does other work now???

[joeg]

go down to autozone and pickup a bottle of "Zerex Water Pump Lubricant and Protector" follow the directions... this product works wonders... fixes a lot of problems, i've heard... and it works better than redline water wetter for reducing engine temps by a few degrees...

i was running it on my eclipse... seems good... i don't have any numbers or anything... its like $4, can't hurt...

[mr mahs]

That's the thing it doesn't overheat. I have ran the car in 100+ degrees with the AC and it doesn't go past half..

[cintron]

If you're not overheating and your pumps haven't seized, or you haven't blown a headgasket, then DON"T WORRY ABOUT IT.

Flushing it 4x is plenty. I run redline water wetter, mostly because of the anti rust properties it has. As long as you're running a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant, you shouldn't have any problems. If it's been flushed multiple times and there's no cooling problems, just fill it with fresh coolant and go fix other parts of your car.

[rampage23]

If you plan on improving your cars performance, then your better off getting a new radiator.. 300zx have frequent problems with overheating...

i also suggest www.nissanforums.com

Really helpful, and a large classified section to buy new and used parts for nissans

late

[Guest saleen351]

can't wait in a couple months, you'll come on here, and learn your car is a piece of shit.. NONE OF THEM LAST PASt 60K......

ITS A KNOWN FACT, THUS WHY YOU DON'T SEE ANY OF THEM ANYMORE.... you would be better off, buying a different car and working it.... if you feel the need for speed the two obvious choices are stangs and Camaors...

an ss with exhaust, tires, gears, timming, would run 13's all day long and still hammer you in the turns... why waste your money on a jap crap car, that from day one had engine issues?

good luck....

[cintron]

Originally posted by saleen351

can't wait in a couple months, you'll come on here, and learn your car is a piece of shit.. NONE OF THEM LAST PASt 60K......

ITS A KNOWN FACT, THUS WHY YOU DON'T SEE ANY OF THEM ANYMORE.... you would be better off, buying a different car and working it.... if you feel the need for speed the two obvious choices are stangs and Camaors...

an ss with exhaust, tires, gears, timming, would run 13's all day long and still hammer you in the turns... why waste your money on a jap crap car, that from day one had engine issues?

good luck....

okay i'm gonna rant now... so sit back and let me blow off some steam:

[rant]

you are soooooo fucking misled, it's tragic.

300zx's, Supras, MR2's - all were RARE, which is why you will not see many of them on the road... versus your dime-a-dozen Mustang and Camaro. Those japanese cars are INCREDIBLY reliable cars. In fact, they're more reliable than most american shitwads you'll find.

The vast majority of American cars are NOT that reliable - ESPECIALLY camaros. [or anything by GM for that matter. I know - I've had EXTENSIVE experience ].

Alternator gone at 70k? Ignition problems? Rear diff blowing up?

Oh yeah sure, hang on... it's only the japanese cars that break

The N/A model of the 300zx will take more abuse than you can throw at it and will run until the end of the apocalypse.

Follow the maintenence schedule and it's never going to leave you stranded. Period.

Shame i can't say the same about Mustangs or camaros. Ford quality control these days is absolute shit, and GM is famous for its LACK of build quality. Here I am in a 1991 Toyota MR2 turbo, running 15psi on the original turbo and motor, with 147k on it.

I've got perfect compression across all cylinders and I changed out my ORIGINAL clutch [with plenty of life left] and alternator at 120k.

I'd like to see a GM car do that.

oh, and the 300zx is perfectly capable of keeping Mustangs and Camaros at bay on a road course. The Twin Turbo model runs about 400bhp when it's simply been BPU'ed [intake, exhaust, boost controller.] And you would never know its been modified until you drop the hammer - that's the level of refinement that you WON"T see in domestic offerings.

I know, because I originally wanted a Mustang GT and then a Camaro SS... drove both, went with friends to the track and out to Lime rock... I enjoyed it.

Then i got in my MR2, ran 13.7@99 and ate said musclecars alive on the course. Who the fuck needs all that displacement when it isn't doing shit against a car packing 1/3 the liters and 3/4 the weight?

With a turbo upgrade, some proper engine management and a set of larger injectors, the 3sgte in my car is capable of well over 400rwhp with a stock longblock. People are hitting over 500rwhp on a stock longblock.

Supras hit over 800rwhp on a STOCK longblock.

His 300zx might be N/A but don't give me this shit about Jap cars being weak, unreliable and slow. Fact of the matter is that they can put out an equal amount of power with a smaller powerplant, which means less weight. Less weight means more nimble handling and better grip and THAT translates to performance that can equal or exceed your bottom of the barrel domestic musclecars. [with HORRENDOUS structural rigidity, might I add.]

[/rant]

[Guest brwneydtrouble]

Originally posted by cintron

okay i'm gonna rant now... so sit back and let me blow off some steam:

[rant]

you are soooooo fucking misled, it's tragic.

300zx's, Supras, MR2's - all were RARE, which is why you will not see many of them on the road... versus your dime-a-dozen Mustang and Camaro. Those japanese cars are INCREDIBLY reliable cars. In fact, they're more reliable than most american shitwads you'll find.

The vast majority of American cars are NOT that reliable - ESPECIALLY camaros. [or anything by GM for that matter. I know - I've had EXTENSIVE experience ].

Alternator gone at 70k? Ignition problems? Rear diff blowing up?

Oh yeah sure, hang on... it's only the japanese cars that break

The N/A model of the 300zx will take more abuse than you can throw at it and will run until the end of the apocalypse.

Follow the maintenence schedule and it's never going to leave you stranded. Period.

Shame i can't say the same about Mustangs or camaros. Ford quality control these days is absolute shit, and GM is famous for its LACK of build quality. Here I am in a 1991 Toyota MR2 turbo, running 15psi on the original turbo and motor, with 147k on it.

I've got perfect compression across all cylinders and I changed out my ORIGINAL clutch [with plenty of life left] and alternator at 120k.

I'd like to see a GM car do that.

oh, and the 300zx is perfectly capable of keeping Mustangs and Camaros at bay on a road course. The Twin Turbo model runs about 400bhp when it's simply been BPU'ed [intake, exhaust, boost controller.] And you would never know its been modified until you drop the hammer - that's the level of refinement that you WON"T see in domestic offerings.

I know, because I originally wanted a Mustang GT and then a Camaro SS... drove both, went with friends to the track and out to Lime rock... I enjoyed it.

Then i got in my MR2, ran 13.7@99 and ate said musclecars alive on the course. Who the fuck needs all that displacement when it isn't doing shit against a car packing 1/3 the liters and 3/4 the weight?

With a turbo upgrade, some proper engine management and a set of larger injectors, the 3sgte in my car is capable of well over 400rwhp with a stock longblock. People are hitting over 500rwhp on a stock longblock.

Supras hit over 800rwhp on a STOCK longblock.

His 300zx might be N/A but don't give me this shit about Jap cars being weak, unreliable and slow. Fact of the matter is that they can put out an equal amount of power with a smaller powerplant, which means less weight. Less weight means more nimble handling and better grip and THAT translates to performance that can equal or exceed your bottom of the barrel domestic musclecars. [with HORRENDOUS structural rigidity, might I add.]

[/rant]

Sorry Saleen, but you are wrong this time. We already had this discussion a LOOOOONG time ago when you thougt that I was a dikey looking, bandana wearing, hood rat from NY. And do you remember what you told me when I took you for a little spin in my S2000?

[teklord310]

Eric basically covered it all....

Timing belt is key, don't worry about the cooling system if the car doesn't overheat... dumping the turbo guts from a TT 300ZX into your N/A would sure be a fun project

If you ever plan on doing that I wouldn't touch the intake, exhaust or clutch/flywheel, unless you are doing all the labor yourself.

Fuck Midas... I can't believe you fuckin said take your car to Midas. I'm going to shoot you in the head Eric.. tisk tisk.... AVOID large chain auto repair shops at ALL costs. They are tools and will fuck shit up without telling you.

The body shop the 944 is said they are going to replace the entire rear suspension. The "estimator" who doesn't know jack shit didn't know what a torsion bar was... oops. Apparantly the entire rear suspension only consists of the trailing arms. Anyway, the mechanics are great, they know their shit.. but the guys behind the big desk are usually morons when it comes to aftermarket stuf and rare cars.

Good luck!

[cintron]

When the fuck did i say Midas?

anyways... yeah DON"T take a rare japanese car to any big chain automotive place becuase they won't know shit unless it wears a chevy or a ford badge.

Get a set of factory service manuals - it's the best investment you can possibly make. That way you know EVERYTHING that needs to be done when you want to work on your car - how to remove parts, how to replace items, the torque specs on the bolts, what parts aren't reuseable, etc.

the Z oughta give you a lot of fun times if it's maintained correctly.

The engine bay is VERY cramped, so spend a lot of time looking around in there and getting to know it, that way you know how to work in it.

Oh and a set of ratcheting wrenches is a GREAT time saver

Napa sells a small toolkit with sockets, wrenches and screwdrivers for 40 bux. Makes a great thing to throw in the trunk.

[joeg]

Originally posted by cintron

okay i'm gonna rant now... so sit back and let me blow off some steam:

[rant]

you are soooooo fucking misled, it's tragic.

300zx's, Supras, MR2's - all were RARE, which is why you will not see many of them on the road... versus your dime-a-dozen Mustang and Camaro. Those japanese cars are INCREDIBLY reliable cars. In fact, they're more reliable than most american shitwads you'll find.

The vast majority of American cars are NOT that reliable - ESPECIALLY camaros. [or anything by GM for that matter. I know - I've had EXTENSIVE experience ].

Alternator gone at 70k? Ignition problems? Rear diff blowing up?

Oh yeah sure, hang on... it's only the japanese cars that break

The N/A model of the 300zx will take more abuse than you can throw at it and will run until the end of the apocalypse.

Follow the maintenence schedule and it's never going to leave you stranded. Period.

Shame i can't say the same about Mustangs or camaros. Ford quality control these days is absolute shit, and GM is famous for its LACK of build quality. Here I am in a 1991 Toyota MR2 turbo, running 15psi on the original turbo and motor, with 147k on it.

I've got perfect compression across all cylinders and I changed out my ORIGINAL clutch [with plenty of life left] and alternator at 120k.

I'd like to see a GM car do that.

oh, and the 300zx is perfectly capable of keeping Mustangs and Camaros at bay on a road course. The Twin Turbo model runs about 400bhp when it's simply been BPU'ed [intake, exhaust, boost controller.] And you would never know its been modified until you drop the hammer - that's the level of refinement that you WON"T see in domestic offerings.

I know, because I originally wanted a Mustang GT and then a Camaro SS... drove both, went with friends to the track and out to Lime rock... I enjoyed it.

Then i got in my MR2, ran 13.7@99 and ate said musclecars alive on the course. Who the fuck needs all that displacement when it isn't doing shit against a car packing 1/3 the liters and 3/4 the weight?

With a turbo upgrade, some proper engine management and a set of larger injectors, the 3sgte in my car is capable of well over 400rwhp with a stock longblock. People are hitting over 500rwhp on a stock longblock.

Supras hit over 800rwhp on a STOCK longblock.

His 300zx might be N/A but don't give me this shit about Jap cars being weak, unreliable and slow. Fact of the matter is that they can put out an equal amount of power with a smaller powerplant, which means less weight. Less weight means more nimble handling and better grip and THAT translates to performance that can equal or exceed your bottom of the barrel domestic musclecars. [with HORRENDOUS structural rigidity, might I add.]

[/rant]

i concur... you take care of a wellbuilt import, it won't die.

my eclipse had 110k on all original parts running 17psi and beating the piss out of it constantly.... ran great, never had a problem...

[Guest jroo]

Originally posted by cintron

okay i'm gonna rant now... so sit back and let me blow off some steam:

[rant]

you are soooooo fucking misled, it's tragic.

300zx's, Supras, MR2's - all were RARE, which is why you will not see many of them on the road... versus your dime-a-dozen Mustang and Camaro. Those japanese cars are INCREDIBLY reliable cars. In fact, they're more reliable than most american shitwads you'll find.

The vast majority of American cars are NOT that reliable - ESPECIALLY camaros. [or anything by GM for that matter. I know - I've had EXTENSIVE experience ].

Alternator gone at 70k? Ignition problems? Rear diff blowing up?

Oh yeah sure, hang on... it's only the japanese cars that break

The N/A model of the 300zx will take more abuse than you can throw at it and will run until the end of the apocalypse.

Follow the maintenence schedule and it's never going to leave you stranded. Period.

Shame i can't say the same about Mustangs or camaros. Ford quality control these days is absolute shit, and GM is famous for its LACK of build quality. Here I am in a 1991 Toyota MR2 turbo, running 15psi on the original turbo and motor, with 147k on it.

I've got perfect compression across all cylinders and I changed out my ORIGINAL clutch [with plenty of life left] and alternator at 120k.

I'd like to see a GM car do that.

oh, and the 300zx is perfectly capable of keeping Mustangs and Camaros at bay on a road course. The Twin Turbo model runs about 400bhp when it's simply been BPU'ed [intake, exhaust, boost controller.] And you would never know its been modified until you drop the hammer - that's the level of refinement that you WON"T see in domestic offerings.

I know, because I originally wanted a Mustang GT and then a Camaro SS... drove both, went with friends to the track and out to Lime rock... I enjoyed it.

Then i got in my MR2, ran 13.7@99 and ate said musclecars alive on the course. Who the fuck needs all that displacement when it isn't doing shit against a car packing 1/3 the liters and 3/4 the weight?

With a turbo upgrade, some proper engine management and a set of larger injectors, the 3sgte in my car is capable of well over 400rwhp with a stock longblock. People are hitting over 500rwhp on a stock longblock.

Supras hit over 800rwhp on a STOCK longblock.

His 300zx might be N/A but don't give me this shit about Jap cars being weak, unreliable and slow. Fact of the matter is that they can put out an equal amount of power with a smaller powerplant, which means less weight. Less weight means more nimble handling and better grip and THAT translates to performance that can equal or exceed your bottom of the barrel domestic musclecars. [with HORRENDOUS structural rigidity, might I add.]

[/rant]

there was a guy at my work that thought my wrx was a rice cooker. he had his daddy's 88 corvette with a chip. im pretty sure he said it produced about 310 hp. well, he kept talking shit about my 30 grand rice cooker. so i challanged him. we were on a single lane road leaving work. i let him lead. that fucker couldnt do a damn thing. i was on his bumper the whole time and still had some more power. we were coming into a turn that i could have taken at 80, we were going about 70 -75 when i see his car hop up, so i backed off him while he commeced to doing 3 360's. ended up in the grass next to a line of posts. i couldnt help but to laugh at him as i drove by. the skid marks are still there to this day, its been about a year. the marks would make a pretty sweet tribal tatoo. the marks are at least 30-50 feet long. i wish i could get an ariel shot of them. he called my car a rice burner after that.

if i ever hear of someone saying an american muscle car has great handling, then i'd love to slap them in the fucking face. my old 96 nissan 200sx se-r handled 20 times better than a 2001 mustang gt. it was sad. i was so dissapointed in the pony.

[mr mahs]

Originally posted by teklord310

Eric basically covered it all....

Timing belt is key, don't worry about the cooling system if the car doesn't overheat... dumping the turbo guts from a TT 300ZX into your N/A would sure be a fun project

If you ever plan on doing that I wouldn't touch the intake, exhaust or clutch/flywheel, unless you are doing all the labor yourself.

Fuck Midas... I can't believe you fuckin said take your car to Midas. I'm going to shoot you in the head Eric.. tisk tisk.... AVOID large chain auto repair shops at ALL costs. They are tools and will fuck shit up without telling you.

The body shop the 944 is said they are going to replace the entire rear suspension. The "estimator" who doesn't know jack shit didn't know what a torsion bar was... oops. Apparantly the entire rear suspension only consists of the trailing arms. Anyway, the mechanics are great, they know their shit.. but the guys behind the big desk are usually morons when it comes to aftermarket stuf and rare cars.

Good luck!

Me and my dad have done some projects like head gaskets and motor swaps but under the 300zx hood looks like a space ship lol.. Seriously I am thinking about adding the twin turbos but maybe in the future maybe as a project..

If you add turbos is the top and bottom the same on the twin turbo model? I was talking to a guy with a twin and he said upgrading would take about 5 g's. Def am buying a manual and hopefully put a new clutch in next year myself... thank god it isn't FWD I might get away with just dropping the transmission....

[cintron]

yes, the VG30DE and the VG30DETT are two different motors, albeit the same basic structure.

Your n/a motor has higher compression pistons, probably different rods, maybe different valvetrain hardware and almost certainly different cams.

Other issues such as sensors, engine bay accessories and piping, the transmission and engine management will probably also differ. Might also want to check out to see if the driveshaft and rear diff. are the same as the turbo model as well.

Your best bet would be to just get a wrecked 300zx and swap over bits and pieces. Turboing an N/A motor is doable, but with all the stuff and lack of room in the Z's engine bay, custom piping for turbos will be a bitch.

why not just high-tune the N/A motor? 300+hp is easily doable with the right parts, and will be more responsive and reliable than a turbo motor.

[mr mahs]

Originally posted by cintron

yes, the VG30DE and the VG30DETT are two different motors, albeit the same basic structure.

Your n/a motor has higher compression pistons, probably different rods, maybe different valvetrain hardware and almost certainly different cams.

Other issues such as sensors, engine bay accessories and piping, the transmission and engine management will probably also differ. Might also want to check out to see if the driveshaft and rear diff. are the same as the turbo model as well.

Your best bet would be to just get a wrecked 300zx and swap over bits and pieces. Turboing an N/A motor is doable, but with all the stuff and lack of room in the Z's engine bay, custom piping for turbos will be a bitch.

why not just high-tune the N/A motor? 300+hp is easily doable with the right parts, and will be more responsive and reliable than a turbo motor.

Your right..

80 horses is what I need to tap 300. Time to go shopping what do you suggest I can do to get there.

[cintron]

n/a tricks

get on a Z board and find out ways to tune up the VG30DE

See what the restrictive pieces are. Also - remember, you still want streetability, so dont go overboard

80hp = an intake, exhaust and a 75 shot of nitrous, if you're not opposed to using the laughing gas. [heck, for n/a cars, it's good stuff. no turbo piping or worrisome cooldown periods... just do yourself a favor and dont get a dry shot.]

the basic bolt-on stuff would be, intake, exhaust, throttlebody [maybe], headers... then you start advancing into things like cams, maybe headwork, lightweight flywheel/aftermarket clutch or maybe underdrive pullies, etc.

i'd say keep an open mind to your approach towards more power - dont simply rule out stuff just because Person X doesn't like that product and Person Y says that nitrous is evil or turbos are stupid, or flywheels are a waste.

DO YOUR RESEARCH. Find out what the strengths and weaknesses of your engine are, before you touch it, that way you make happy power till the end of days and don't get any nasty suprises of things going *BANG* or *CLANK PUTT PUTT PSSH* and leaving you stranded on the side of the road.

[real5]

check out cardomain.com to see what other people do to it