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hoke

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Posts posted by hoke

  1. the vinyl sitting on wax paper sitting on aluminum won't keep pitch as long as with the rubber mat in there... it'll slip a little bit every second the vinyl goes 'round... so consistent long-term (2/3 minutes) beat matching could prove more difficult.

    Good point... I have sometimes wondered if my records were losing their pitch. Is there any (inexpensive) way to find out?

    I hope all goes well with your djin.!

    Thanks! If I ever record a session that doesn't make me want to puke, I'll try to find a way to stream it for you all to hear (and ridicule as fit)!

  2. they do say you can leave the rubber mat out (but again still the extra vibration is bad for the longevity of your turntable!) and here's something really curious - the printed/logo side of the slipmatt is less slipery than the non-logo side - so there's something else to try.

    That is definitely interesting. I had already heard that slipmats with designs are not as slippy, but it hadn't occured to me to turn mine over. Sheesh <slapping forhead>. I did cut some waxpaper to the size of my mats, though, and that helps incredibly.

    It's funny what you say about the rubber mats and the longevity of the table, though. Some people seem to think that the friction caused by the rubber mat is also bad for the table. So I wonder which is worse -- the friction or the vibrations? Do they mean the vibrations from placing your hands on the records? I mean, if it's external vibrations from bass, etc., won't the whole table be vibrating anyway, and the rubber mats only dampen the effect on the records? I'm not arguing, just curious about what they meant.

    Basically, it seems like there are pros and cons for each option, and it seems to somewhat be just a matter of preference.

    Thanks for the info, guys. Despite some frustrations, I'm having a lot of fun learning this new hobby of mine. :)

  3. quoth,

    Look, I'm not a "know-it-all", I'm just trying to reconcile the fact that I'm getting conflicting advice -- and your advice is in the minority of what I've seen so far!

    There's really no need to curse and give me a hard time the way you are -- yes, I'm just starting out, and that's why I'm trying to find out exactly what the right thing to do is. And I did ask a legitimate question about the difference between house and scratch DJs. You've actually confused the issue even more for me, because you say that the rubber mat is there for absorption, but they you say that the UK DJs don't use them because they're scratch DJs. First of all, I don't know how you judged that, but even if it's true, then wouldn't scratch DJs need the absorption even more?

    Here are some more points where I'm confused.

    1) Yeah, I bought my decks at Canal St. But that doesn't necessarily make them sub-par. I've been reassured that it would be too costly to imitate Technics. The decks I bought were likely bought as part of a bulk shipment in a struggling European country. That explains why they were so cheap, and also why they came with two sets of instructions -- one in English and one in Russian. But I'm definitely interested to hear a more detailed explanation as to why my decks might be inferior.

    2) As far as I know, there's nothing wrong with 1210s. Many people in the US use them. Yes, they're European models, but I'll say this again: they are voltage switched. They have a setting for 110 or 220; other than that, they're about the same as 1200's. That said, if you have any real insight into a problem with the 1210's, I'm all ears. Really, I am.

    3) The link you gave is an advertisement. They're going over all of the included features in an attempt to sell the thing -- not as advice to new DJs. Do you have any other sources that talk about the rubber mat?

    4) Why on earth would European DJs configure their TT's any differently than American DJs? Also, keep in mind that the DJ Source forum is a globally accessible web site. It's not restricted to British posters. From what I can tell, there are plenty of people from the US posting on that board, too.

    5) Did you read my second-to-last post? I *am* using waxpaper. The paper towel was just an experiment to see if the slipmat was really my problem. Again, everything seems to be working just fine now. :)

    6) No, I've never met you. I can't tell if you mean that in a good way or a bad way, but honestly, with the type of response you gave me, I don't *want* to meet you -- whether or not everybody else says you're a "nice guy".

    "Peace" :(

  4. the rubber mat is good.

    you really wanna f' up your platter, or worse, your drive system?

    quoth is spot on with the advice.

    maybe you have a misconception about how 'easy' it's supposed to be to scratch-play a record - there are Reasons shops like turntable lab sell 'exercise' units which consist of a woodblock and a spring loaded simulation quarter-piece of vinyl... scratch/battle dj's WORK their wrists to get the effects they do...

    Look, no offense, but every online tutorial I've seen has said to ditch the rubber mat. The people at 1200s.com said to ditch the rubber mat.

    Visit the DJ Source forums and do a search for "rubber slipmat". See what I mean?

    I'm a house DJ, not a scratch DJ -- maybe that has something to do with the difference in advice?

  5. maybe theres a problem because u have the 1210 models instead of 1200!!

    Yeah, the 1210's are European, but they're also voltage-switched. If you lift the platter, theres a knob there for switching between 110 and 220. I have it set to 110, which is right for the U.S.

    The rubber mat BTW is suppose to stay on there and helps control vibration as well as fricition.

    Are you sure? Almost everything I've seen has said to take off the rubber mat.

    Anyway, I put waxpaper between the platter and the slipmat, and it's all good now. I must just have *really* non-slippy slipmats.

  6. Its not your slipmat.

    You guys are probably right that the hole has something to do with it. But did you read about my experiment with the paper towel? I really do think my slipmat is sub-par. I'm going to try using wax paper, to avoid spending $ on new slipmats.

    I got another reply from 1200s.com that also suggested using wax paper.

    Thanks for everybody's input. I'm really new to this and the challenges of getting started are both frustrating and fun -- if that's really possible :)

  7. In case you're curious, here's the response I got from 1200s.com -- very reassuring:

    __________________________

    Well, first off, it is very expensive to copy a Technics turntable without noticing alot of real differences. And secondly, it's alot cheaper to bring them in from outside of the U.S. in bulk then to buy them from Technics in the U.S. Also, I've never seen anyone properly copy a 1200. It just can't be done, and if it has been done, I am sure it cost too much to do. Just make sure on the back of your unit, there is a serial number, and usually located above it, there is a 2 or 1 letter mark that should be one of the following: MC, M, E, EK, XL, EG, EB, EH, EF, Ei, XA, PA, PE, PC

    If so, you're fine. As for what they sell on Canal st., well, alot of the stuff is Grey/Black market stuff, meaning that the item is not supposed to be sold in the U.S. Different 1200s are meant for different parts of the world. Those letters above tell you which part of the world the item is only supposed to be sold. Alot of times, these Canal St. vendors will group together, buy say 10,000 1200s from another country where the Dollar is more powerful then the local currency, and ship the units to the U.S. Most of these turntables come from Africa, Middle East, South America, Asia, etc... where the Dollar can buy more than the local currency. So they can buy more turntables using the American Dollar then another currency.

    This does not make the turntables worst or better, its just that in different parts of the world, they use different electrical settings, different voltage settings, etc. that can affect the performance of the turntable. Essentially, it's still the same 1200, with slightly different electrical components. But 95% of everything else is the same.

    Now, on to your problem.... The turntable platter itself should not completely stop unless your holding it(but it does happen), or pressing the record hard enough where the platter slows down or stops, but you will get some fluctuation with speed regardless, simply because you are putting force on the record. The beauty of the 1200 is that even if the platter does slow down when your cueing up a record, as soon as you let go, the platter instantly returns to its normal state. That is what sets it apart from other turntables. The motor is soo powerful, that as soon as you let a record go, the motor instantly returns to normal. Whereas other turntables, it might take like 1/2 a second to get back to normal. So, the platter might slow down, it might not. That is not what makes the 1200s different, what makes it different is the speed in which it returns to normal when you let go of the record. As for your slipmat, yes, it will continue to move, and it might not. A really good slipmat will continue to move as you hold the record. The slipmat is basically used as an anti rotating device, so that you don't have to put alot of pressure on your record to hold it.

    In all honesty, your turntable seems to be working fine. Do not think that the platter must continue to rotate, and that it is sooo powerful that you can't make it stop. As I said, sometimes it slows down, sometimes it stops, and then sometimes it continues. But, as soon as you let the record or the platter go, it should instantly return to normal speed. If it does not, then you have a problem.

    Hope this helps.

    CustomerCare@1200s.com

    www.1200s.com

  8. <Bump>

    Anyone?

    At this point, I'm inclined to think that I have the world's worst slipmats. I placed a piece of paper towel between the slipmat and the platter, and it was 100x better. Then, for comparison, I tried using just the rubber mat that came with the deck, and got about the same performance as the slipmat.

    That must be a pretty crappy slipmat, to be no better than a rubber mat. I'll buy new slipmats this evening and see what happens.

  9. I bought a pair of Technics 1210's on Canal St. on Saturday. I've been fooling around with them and discovered that sometimes -- generally with thicker records -- the platter will slow or even stop when I try to cue the record. Isn't this NOT supposed to happen with Technics?

    I did get rid of the rubber mat and I'm using Numark slipmats.

    What am I doing wrong? Somebody told me that a lot of what's sold on Canal St. is cheap imitations. Is it possible that I don't really have Technics? Or is this just a question of the slipmat, deck configuration, and/or technique (no pun intended).

    Please help!

    P.S. I just noticed that when I hold the record, the slipmat spins with the platter. Is that what's supposed to happen, or does that indicate a crappy slipmat?

  10. queens and brooklyn -> more like 20-25.

    I live in Astoria.

    And proximity to midtown isn't the best measure of commute time. When I lived in Park Slope, I was a hop, skip and a jump from downtown, and really never felt a need to be any closer to midtown.

  11. Damn... my friend went and he said the same things most of you are saying -- incredible fast beats, not too crowded so enough room to dance, started out slow then got harder.

    I wish SOOOOO much that I wasn't sick so I could have gone! Sounds like I missed a great party :(

  12. I ALSO HERE THERE IS A NEW CLUB IN ASTORIA CALLED ENIGMA I HAVEN'T SEEN IT YET ANYBODY BEEN THERE?

    Enigma is just down the street from Cavo, but I don't think there are any parties there right now. A couple months back, they were trying to have a Wednesday house party. It was great music, but they had trouble filling it up.

    I hear a lot about Cafe Bar, but I've never actually been there. I do like going to Lounge 32 (formerly Amnesia), though. The DJ there, Dimitri, is pretty good.

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