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? about wood/staining


iamme

Should I Make the Poker Table ROUND or OCTAGONAL??  

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  1. 1. Should I Make the Poker Table ROUND or OCTAGONAL??

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so im going to be staining some wood like a cherry/rosewood color. its going to be for a poker table i am building. i am also thinking of putting some design along the table (painted on) and its sides.

would this be the appropriate order:

1 sand

2 stain

3 paint design

4 add some protective coating (if so wtf is it?)

is there a special/recommended paint to be used for fine (as in small&detailed) painting for this on wood? also if i make a mistake, would paint thinner mess up the stain??

any ideas? :confused:

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so im going to be staining some wood like a cherry/rosewood color. its going to be for a poker table i am building. i am also thinking of putting some design along the table (painted on) and its sides.

would this be the appropriate order:

1 sand

2 stain

3 paint design

4 add some protective coating (if so wtf is it?)

is there a special/recommended paint to be used for fine (as in small&detailed) painting for this on wood? also if i make a mistake, would paint thinner mess up the stain??

any ideas? :confused:

check this out..Ignore the stripping section if you're building new... they also sell everything you'd need

http://www.furnitureknowledge.com/how_to_refinish.htm

If you're looking for an easy way out go to home depot and get some stain and top coat it with urethane... you'll get a finish that looks kinda like wood flooring...

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check this out..Ignore the stripping section if you're building new... they also sell everything you'd need

http://www.furnitureknowledge.com/how_to_refinish.htm

If you're looking for an easy way out go to home depot and get some stain and top coat it with urethane... you'll get a finish that looks kinda like wood flooring...

hmm, nice site. ill have to read through it.

i dont think it mentions, however, anything in regards to painting a design onto the table...unless i am skimming too quickly :half:

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so im going to be staining some wood like a cherry/rosewood color. its going to be for a poker table i am building. i am also thinking of putting some design along the table (painted on) and its sides.

would this be the appropriate order:

1 sand

2 stain

3 paint design

4 add some protective coating (if so wtf is it?)

is there a special/recommended paint to be used for fine (as in small&detailed) painting for this on wood? also if i make a mistake, would paint thinner mess up the stain??

any ideas? :confused:

Ive done tons of wood work. Explain what you want the finished product to look like and what the wood is currently?

You basically want to

1. Prep the wood.

Here the sanding process depends on what you are dealing with currently.

Example - are you removing existing stain, paint, or residue.

For example, if your starting with wood that is unfinished but marked up, you want to start with a hand belt sander (about $25) and use about 60 to 80 grit to take off a full layer. Here is the important part. You need to know, or at least tell me, what condition the wood is in. The higher the grit, the more the surface will be removed. You dont want to start higher than you need because they will be left with marks that you didnt want.

2. Clean and repeat

Here, dust the service clean. Now finish (if need be) again with a low grit to clean up slight imperfections.

3. Clean

Clean the surface with a soft slightly (very slightly) damp cloth to remove all dust. It's imperative to remove all dust. If you dont, you will be setting granules of dust into table when you stain which you dont want.

4. Stain

Staining is an extremely delicate step because simply certain woods respond differently to diff types of stains. The softer the wood, the more aborbent it will be to the stain.

If possible, get a sample of your wood and test a spot with the stain you hope for. Let it see and dry. See if you like it. Stain is not like paint. When you open a can of paint, thats the color you are getting when you apply it to the wall. With stain, diff types of woods respond diff to diff types of stain.

Of note - if your wood IS the color you want it to be without the stain, forego stain and just put the next step. I personally like to forgeo stain whenver possible.

Before the next step, use a soft sandpaper and sand any mistakes and reapply the stain appropriately.

5. Polyutheraine (sp)

Finally finish with a polyutheraine. Choose one that is none-yellowing, prerfably water based. If you wrongly choose a yellowing one, it will change the color of the wood towards a yellow.

Even the non-yellowing poly gives some yellow effect.

When done, light sand mistakes. And repeat.

If water and such is going to be on the table, put 3-6 coats of poly. In the long run, you will not regret it.

Attention: Deepsell -

Is this the longest post ever or what? lol j/k

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will do. what sucks is that i dont really have room for it now, since i dont have my own place, and i would hate to have to make this with folding legs :half:

...but this is the only time i can build it (using my friends garage and tools)...so i might have to just leave the pedestal leg unattached until i am ready to move then screw in that sucker. booooooo.

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lalate: thanks man. i am trying to replicate the above table. not sure what wood i am using yet. someone i know who did it used a maple/birchwood plywood (which is rather light) for it and had a lighter stain :yuck: but it is relatively cheap. i want a dark wood, but i think it would be more expensive. would a dark stain not work well on maple/birchwood plywood?? any recommended wood with a dark color for this type of project??

i need to hit up Home Depot and check out prices. I looked at some plans and it seems a quality table can be built for ~ $300...instead of paying $800-900 for something similar.

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lalate: thanks man. i am trying to replicate the above table. not sure what wood i am using yet. someone i know who did it used a maple/birchwood plywood (which is rather light) for it and had a lighter stain :yuck: but it is relatively cheap. i want a dark wood, but i think it would be more expensive. would a dark stain not work well on maple/birchwood plywood?? any recommended wood with a dark color for this type of project??

i need to hit up Home Depot and check out prices. I looked at some plans and it seems a quality table can be built for ~ $300...instead of paying $800-900 for something similar.

Home Depot usually has some precut round pieces that are already finished which may come in cheaper overall.

Some woods are closer untreated to the color you want. Therefoer you will have to do less work (and less materials) to get them to approach the color you want for your finished product. When you go, speak to the person in wood and tell them the purpose of the wood. They will probably tell you to stay away from soft woods and go for harder woods overall. I think you can do it under 300 actually.

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nice!! make me one too !

fo you?? $650!!

actually read yesterday that some guy out of Colorado thats pretty skilled at woodworking is "retiring" (rather early) from his day job and just making custom poker tables with the recent popularity surge of zee POKER....not a bad job...

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fo you?? $650!!

actually read yesterday that some guy out of Colorado thats pretty skilled at woodworking is "retiring" (rather early) from his day job and just making custom poker tables with the recent popularity surge of zee POKER....not a bad job...

As a side note, I dont know how it is where you are, but here you can pick up tons of thosand dollar antique tables for about your price ... and then you can modify them. That might be better too.

Also - you may wanta consider the "two person test" lol. I like to see if the table always supports my weight and the weight of another girl before I buy it. (And you thought I had all this knowledge of how to make smooth wood surfaces for nothing. lol)

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I think you'd spend more than 300 it would probably cost that much just to make the base... In any event you have to figure it will also take time to build... Personally I think you'd be better off buying it for 800-900 ... I mean at least you know that the finished product is going to be right... I actually work for the carpenters union and I can tell you honestly that's not the kind of job you want to tackle in someones garage with wood and supplies purchased from home depot....unless you have a friend who does custom millwork that can run all the base and edge profiles for you, you may very well wind up spending more that 900 to end up with the same product.

But who am I to say..... if you're capable and you feel you can do it .... give it a shot... If you get good at it let me know.... we cant even find guys who can do framing and sheetrock without fucking up...

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not reallyyyyyyyyy...i whittled a toothpick out of stick once :idea:

thats where my friend comes in. he has done alot of work with his father, who is a contractor and is always build sh!t, so he has the expertise and experience (and all the necessary tools). we will be building it together. i figure he will teach me whatever i need to know along the way. :)

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